THE GREAT BRINGERS OF DEMOCRACY AND LIBERTY — A TALE OF BETRAYAL AND DEATH

When we depart Afghanistan, we will be leaving thousands of partners who aided the US/Coalition effort.

Leaving them to their fate.

These folks, who are ALL MUSLIM, have risked their lives for meager pay. We pay them anywhere from 150.00 to 3000.00 monthly average but most make closer to 800.00USD. In the meantime, thousands of them have been beaten, threatened kidnapped and at the extreme murdered in cold blood along with their families.

I have huge problems with Islam and what I call the “Muslim mentality.” That said, these folks, all of whom are Muslim have aided in our efforts against the insurgency, al Qaeda and the Taliban. They’ve put their lives on the line for their country, for the US & Coalition and for us.

I can’t not admire that and I can’t help but feel some sense of shame for we shall abandon them just as we abandoned the Vietnamese, Lao, Khmer and, more recently, the Iraqis.

We did not have to come here. They did not have to accept us. Nonetheless, we came. We stirred up the hornet’s nest. We shall depart hailing ourselves as the Great Bringers of Democracy and Liberty.

They will stay, suffer and die. We are culpable here in the Stan just as we are for the events transpiring in Fallujah and Mosul.

 

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I knew this kid.  He works in a nan shop in Kabul right near where I was.  I bought bread from him two or three times a week.  I used to give him a Snickers bar when I bought fread.  Five of those “loaves” hanging behind Petraeus cost about 1USD (50 Afs).  Best bread in the world.

Wazir of Herat

 

Wazir was one of my little buddies while I was working in Herat, Afghanistan.  I played games with him and his siblings and took them candy, toys and clothes from time to time.

They made Afghanistan feel a little bit more like home.

Graduation — First Class of 2008

I wrote this up in Feb 2008.  Made it Private for the Military.  Now, I’m putting it out here.  Most of these folks are moved on.  So it’s safe.

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We graduated our first class of 2008. The Big Man–MG Ak– wasn’t around so BG Ali Khan was our Master of Ceremonies. The ceremony usually consists of the General giving a few “encouraging” remarks to the class. Then I stand up and announce the names.  I may make a few remarks first.  Sometimes, I don’t.   The students walk up as I call their names off and a ranking officer and I and a guest or two congratulate the student and hand them their course certificate. The students walk up. Salute the General. Sometimes, I get a little confused. Because I feel like they are saluting me as well. So one in a while, I’ll return an awkward salute. The student is then handed their certificate and whomever the presenter is shakes their hand and congratulates them.

Everyone involved seems to really enjoy these ceremonies. The Generals get to show up and wax poetic or harass the loggie students. The students get recognition. I get a buy in to my classes and my job security. haha Our guests and other attendees get some nice cakes and cookies and some of that good old Afghan (Indian) chai. And, of course, I enjoy talking to the Generals and other Officers. I thoroughly enjoy this job. In case, anyone hasn’t caught that.

After the certificates are presented and a few more remarks by the Regional Press Officer COL Arkuni (I think), BG Ali Khan invites me to sit beside him. He offers me a cookie from the desert tray. Once I take one, that is the signal for everyone else to eat as well. It’s all so formal that it makes me laugh at times. Then we sit and chat for a bit. I didn’t realize it at the time but everyone was watching and listening to us talk. I get fairly animated in conversation as you can see in the video. Sometimes, I don’t pay attention to anything or anyone else. I tell the General that this class was our best. My favorite so far. The Officers were engaged. They actively participated. Even got heated a few times . I enjoyed the exchange even as the students attitudes towards one another sometimes confused me.
Once the General and I conclude our conversation. BG Ali Khan gives a nod and his assistant barks the room to attention and he exits.

That concludes the festivities.

This class was exceptional on many scores. At one point, LTC Khoda Daad was talking too much for one of two of our other students. Sayeed Mohammad stood up and told him that if he knows so much, he should teach the class. At first, I thought he was telling me that I was a poor teacher and that he’d rather hear LTC Daad. I finally realized that he was telling LTC Daad that I was the teacher and he should listen more and talk less. I laughed. It seems that in every class we have what I call the “question man.” This is a guy who will ask a question or two every hour. Sometimes more. When Afghans ask a question, it is extremely formal. They stand up and very respectfully state their question and it seems that it goes on and on. Usually, the question is loosely based on the class. Often, they will be asking something to the effect of how should they enact a certain policy if their commander will not enforce it or actively opposes it. This is a large and loaded question. In Afghanistan, policy quarrels can result in death. Often times, the issue is money. Active property management may keep a corrupt official from earning his extra-occupational funding for the month. An active logistician will keep money out of a corrupt officials pockets. In Afghanistan, these things are often settled in violence. It’s a hard line to follow. If the Logistics Officer is hard line, it could well result in violence against him. Is it worth the risk to life to call out your Commandhan over a policy matter. You may be staking your life, your families health or your career. I have to present the course and answer question with that in mind.

On breaks, we sat and talked politics, religion and culture. We even watched Jennifer Lopez, Shakira and Katherine McPhee videos. We talked much of Pakistan and the eastern frontier. This is the area bordering Waziristan. The no man’s land of Pakistan’s western frontier. The home of the Taliban. They asked me why the US did not declare war on Pakistan. I often times wonder tha same thing. Politics plays heavily there. War on Pakistan and destabilize a country with nuclear capabilities. Dangers. The unknown. Who knows what becomes of the region in that instance. Could be better. Could become much, much worse.

After the ceremony, the students invite us to visit them in their respective districts. Abdul Qhayooum tells me that if I visit Bala Baluk that I should be his guest in his house. I have to tell him that this is impossible as the military and my company requires that I stay on a FOB or PRT. He understands. But that doesn’t stop other students from extending the same invitation.

Afghanis are a hospitable people. It’s part of their national characteristic. This country was famous for it’s hospitality prior to the Soviet Invasion. That is why it was a primary stop on the hippy trail of the 60s and 70s. Afghanistan is a fascinating country. It has much to offer. If the insurgents and bandits would step down and accept law and order, Afghanistan could have a thriving tourism industry. Trekking in the mountains. The history of this country extends from pre-Alexandrian Bactria to the time and conquests of Alexander to the Genghis Khan to the Moghul Empire of India. Buddhism once thrived in the North. Zoroastrians once traveled across these lands. The whirling dervishes of Sufist Islam and the poetry of Jami, Rumi and Ansari. Herat once was a major center of culture and literacy. These lands and this people trace their history back to antiquity and beyond. Such incredible adventures that could be played out in the dramatic landscapes of this country.

I’m in Kabul. Again…

This is an old post that I had made private due to the Military.

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My holiday has commenced. I woke at 5 a.m. to grab a ride with the SECFOR. Got to the Herat airport shortly thereafter. I was supposed to fly with Kam Air to Kabul. As I was waiting for my flight, fortune smiled on me. There was an Italian PRT flight preparing to depart for Kabul via Chagcharan. PRT flights are run by NATO. Mostly Spanish or Italian. This flight was scheduled to depart at 0800. So I was excited to be getting out early and without the hassle of flying with Kam Air.

The Kam Air flight was supposed to depart at 0900. I’m guessing that it probably landed in Herat at 12 noon. Typically late.

I signed up for the PRT flight. We departed at approximately 0900. The aircraft for Kam Air hadn’t shown up yet.

During the flight, a rather ancient Afghani fellow sat next to me on the flight. Apparently, he had never flown before. I had to buckle his seat belt for him. During take off and each time we hit turbulence of any sort, this fellow reaches across and grabs the seat in front of him and white knuckles it. It was a little humorous. I felt sorry for the guy though. He was pretty frightened. Once we landed, he jumped to the ground and wouldn’t let go of the aircraft.

So now, I’m in Kabul. I need to get pages added to my passport (again). Monday, I’m off to Dubai.

A few days later, I’ll be standing in front of the Taj Mahal with my brand new Olympus e-Volt SLR. Awesome.

As an aside, I have to wonder why everything that involves the US military is such a hassle. With US Mil Air, you have to sign up 3 days in advance. You need two copies of your orders. One must be “officially” stamped. Then you must show up 4 hours early for your flight to get manifested with the “officially” stamped orders and ID Card in hand. Then stick around for four hours waiting for the aircraft to show or be cancelled. They collect all ID cards as you are manifested. In order to board the aircraft you must wait until they call off your name and return your ID Card. When you land, they collect you ID Card again. You have to wait for another 30 minutes to an hour to get it back and your bags may take an hour.

NATO PRT. I showed up expecting to take a commercial flight. Asked if I could hop on the PRT flight. They said sure and took my name down on his list. I waited about two hours and boarded the aircraft. 90 minutes later, I was in Kabul. I exited the aircraft. A German ground controller escorted us off the tarmac. He asked who was continuing on to other destinations and told the rest of us to have a nice day.

Bureaucracy. Idiocracy. US Mil Air.

The Taliban Song and a day in Class

Another old post that I’d made private due to the Military

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These are some clips from the Taliban video that I placed on here earlier. I thought it would be fun to piece it together with Toby Keith’s The Taliban Song.

I teach a logistics class here in Herat. For each class, we take a group picture. At graduation, we present the students with a certificate and this picture in a folder. The certificate gives them credentials as a “trained” logistician. This is an MoI ANP requirement. The picture is a memento of the class from our group of instructors.

While taking the pictures, my fellow instructor asked one of our students if he was nervous about having his picture taken with Americans. The taliban catches him with the pic, he’s liable to find himself in a bit of a pickle. The guy in question is from Bale Baluk which is down south in Farah Province. Farah is “Indian country.” It’s a hot area with a high level of bandit/taliban activity. Bale Baluk’s immediate reply; “f*ck the taliban.”

We all had a good laugh at this comment.

Earlier in the week, Bale Baluk told me that he was Muslim because his parents were Muslim. But that it wasn’t important. He and another student went on to tell me that Islam is the religion of the Arabs. They brought it here and left it. But it has caused many problems for the Afghan people. They stated that “Afghanistan would be better off without it.” A profound statement. An unexpected statement.

I am not real fond of Islam as a religion or as an institution of any kind. Because of this, a friend of mine recently asked me why I would come to a Muslim country in support of a program that would modernize Muslims. This endeavor could very well serve to elevate them into a more serious threat in the future.

I see his point. That said, there are days like today and guys like our Bale Baluk student who make it seem a worthy endeavor. 40 is probably the median age of our students. We’ve had a couple of guys who were in their mid to late 20s. A few guys who were pushing 60. Most are around 38 to 45. Senior guys who were around for the Russians, the taliban and the War of the Warlords in Kabul. Now, they are on board with America and our attempt to modernize their country.

I try to engage our students in each class period. Sometimes, they are willing to talk when pushed a bit. Some of them don’t really say a lot to us. They listen. They might ask a question or two. Mostly they sit and learn a bit to take back to their districts. About half of them will engage us in conversation.

Our current class is a little different. There are three guys in the class who have come back for reinforcement training. A second go round. They felt like they could learn more by coming back. These guys are extremely open. At the end of each class, thus far, they have taken to engaging ME in conversation. Asking my opinion on world affairs. Asking me what I think about Karzai and Bush. Asking why I think Bush has not attacked Pakistan.

Something that some of you might find surprising is that Afghanis have no love for Pakistan. They (rightfully) blame Pakistan for the rise of the taliban. These guys have no love for Iran. But they absolutely abhor and completely distrust Pakistan. They think that we (the US) should turn our guns on Pakistan as that is the origin of much of the trouble in this country. The taliban is trained in Waziristan. Peshawar is a hot bed for insurgents. Hekmatyar Guilbuldin is in hiding somewhere in the neighborhood of Peshawar.

Guilbuldin is one of the worst of the warlords from the time of Civil War in and around Kabul. He fought against Massoud for control of Kabul after the Russians retreated across the Amu Darya.

Massoud is another surprisingly complex conversation. Not all Afghanis consider Shah Ahmed Massoud a National Hero. He is not universally loved as some of the international press would have the world believe. Massoud launched many a rocket into the civilian population of Kabul. He, also, is said to have treated often with the Soviets during the 80s. This allowed the Northern Alliance to lick it’s wounds. But it came at the expense of the rest of the country.

Afghanistan is a complex country. There are no easy answers here.

Some of these guys are pretty intense. Some of them are extremely reserved and dignified. You have to be careful. They can’t lose face in this society.

These guys. This class. They are extremely laid back. One of the older guys asked me to play him some sexy videos because he hadn’t seen his wife in a month. He’s from Farah and has been waiting for our class in Herat for a couple of weeks. Travel here is difficult and time consuming. Earlier in the week, I had been playing my Ipod and they all wanted to listen to it. I promised them that I would bring my personal laptop to class the next day. I have 100 gigs of Itunes music and videos on my laptop. They all wanted to hear and see the music videos. And, of course, they wanted to see “sexy videos.”

I connected my laptop to our Sony video projector and a set of speakers that I had one of our Terps purchase downtown when I first arrived in Herat. They wanted sexy, so I played Jennifer Lopez. They loved her. I played a few others like Faith Hill, Carrie Underwood and Katherine McPhee. Katherine McPhee would be a Superstar in Afghanistan. They seem to love her. One of my terps told me that I “can not compare anyone to Katherine.” “She is the best.” I could only laugh.

The funniest part of the day came when Bale Baluk jumped up on the table and started to dance. I never thought I would see any of these guys do such a thing.

It was a good day. A day I am not likely to forget.

Enough of my ramblings…

Below is a video of one of our classes and a few pictures of our students and us cutting up.

Above is Bale Baluk. He was our table dancer. Now tell me you could predict that one. lol

One thing that is humbling for me is the respect that these guys show me as their mentor. I don’t feel “worthy” of such respect. When I chance upon one of my students on a visit to the Regional Headquarters, they address me as “Teacher” and place their hand over their hearts as they greet me. I get the full hand shake/hug and double cheek kiss as well. Most of these men are older than me by ten years or more. They’ve been through war and terrifying experiences. Some of them risk their lives just to attend these classes. I’m always humbled by their greeting and by their sacrifice. These men have a quiet dignity with which they carry themselves. I feel greatly honored when they feel comfortable enough with us to let down their guard and to allow us a glimpse of themselves on such an informal level. This does not occur so often in my experience. It’s an awesome feeling to sit on an equal step of humanity with these men.

Monetary Notes of the World

Unny and I had this table custom made for our new digs out in the ‘burbs.  Cost a bit, but, not too much.  It’s made from teak wood.  I wanted something in which to display the monetary notes which I’ve collected from my travels.  I only wish that I had some of the notes that are in my storage room back in the States.

There are notes in there from China, Dubai, Kuwait, Afghanistan, Thailand, Cambodia, Laos, India, Iran, Bahrain, Egypt, Vietnam, North Korea and a few other countries.  As well as notes from old French Indochine.  The note with the tiger is from Vietnam during the US war era.  I actually got that one from ebay.com because I thought it was cool.

There are also coins in there from all over (Japan, Malaysia, EU, England, etc).  Some old ones but mostly newer coins.  I placed my three French Indochine Silver Dollars. They’re probably counterfeit, but, I don’t care.  That actually makes them a little more interesting to me and I paid a pittance for them.  3 or 4 bucks.  Nothing to cry over.  I knew or thought that they were fakes when I purchased them.

I also placed of couple of Greco-Bactrian coins in there.  Supposedly, they’re silver and over a thousand years old.  I don’t know.  So many fakes being sold in Afghanistan these days.  Even so, those coins are supposedly a dime a dozen over there.  Chances are they’re real.  They’re not rare, though.  At least not for anyone who’s traveled in Central Asia.  They’re all over the place there.  It is said that one can find them walking out in open ground or on fields and such.  They’re that common place.  Neat little pieces of history.

The necklace is a Kuchi piece that I purchased at a bazaar in Herat.  It’s made of brass and copper with a few worthless gems thrown in for good measure.  It has an old animist relief on it.  Looks to be an old Ganesh likeness to me. I also placed my Bamian Buddha stamps in the lower right corner and four little jewelry/snuff boxes.  The two with Camels depicted on them are from Dubai and made from silver and glazed to make the camel likenesses.  The other two I purchased in Herat.  Those two are supposed to be silver as well.  Though, I doubt it.

There you have it.  My little collection of monies (and sundry items) from around the world.

Masjid Jami

Sometime during my tour in Afghanistan, I got outside the wire.  I tend to do this from time to time.  Get out and wander around with a friend or two.

This particular time, I was doing some business with the ANP Province Headquarters.  While there, I crept out with a few guys and one ANP Colonel and strolled over to the Masjid Jami in Herat.  COL Khoda Dad spoke with the head Mullah there and asked him to give me a tour of the Mosque.  After intros were made, I was escorted about and taken to almost every part of the Mosque.  One of the more interesting parts of the tour were when they showed me the room where all of the repairs are made for tiles and such.  They do all repairs by hand.  Exactly the same process as hundreds of years ago when the Mosque was first created.  They even hand paint the ceramics onto the tiles.

I took these pictures as I walked around in awe of the agelessness of the place.

I’m very lucky to have been able to have had this and other experiences in Afghanistan.  I’d venture to say that not everyone has such incredible and unique adventures over there.

Khoda Hafiz!

Touring Herat with the ANP

Last few days in Herat.

I had asked General Akrummuddin and COL Zahir to arrange a tour of Herat for me.  There are hundreds of architectural and historical wonders in and around Herat.  The Primary locations being the Minarets, the Citadel and the Masjid Jami.  All beautiful with centuries of history. These structures have been witness to Alexander, Tamerlane, Genghis Khan, Babur Khan and a host of other historical figures of greater or lesser renown.

With about a month to go, I felt safe to get the tour underway.  COL Zahir and General AKs Securty Deputy were worried.  What would happen to them if I were kidnapped or harmed in some way under their watch.  Probably would be a mess.  Not that I’m a huge target or an important target.

I talked to General AK and COL Zahir again.  They arranged everything.

I was given a two vehicle entourage with security guards for protection.  I was driven around the city and taken to the Martyrs Museum, the Citadel, an ancient aqueduct, a couple of Shi’a Shrines in the area the names of which I can’t remember right now (I’ll have to update this later) and to the Minarets and the Ghowharashad Shrine.

The Minarets had to be magnificent in their day.  They’re still a site to behold.  Especially considering the age of the things.  The Citadel was extraordinary.  I was able to get our and mix it up a bit with the locals right around the Citadel.

It was an incredible adventure about which I plan to write more in the future.

For now, I simply wish to share the photos from the event.

Hope you enjoy.

Farewell Party

I planned a Farewell Party for my guys (and me, of course).

I had Shoaib bring in a Kabob guy from downtown Herat.  Had the whole Afghan Kabob platter.  Cucumbers, tomatoes, lamb, beef and chicken.  Nan (Afghan bread).  Apples and Oranges.  Soda and water.  The meat was grilled right there on Camp Zafar by the Kabob shop owner.  He knew he had to get it right because of our guests.  I don’t reckon it would be good for his business to piss off the Regional Police Commander.  lol

That morning (18 Feb), Shoaib was dropped off downtown.  He picked up the fruit, drinks, the kabob shop guy with all of his supplies and meats and such.  Yama drove them all to the gate.

At about 1030, I headed for Camp Zafar.  15 minutes later, Shoaib calls from the gate.  The ANA (Afghan Army) didn’t want to cooperate.  They wouldn’t let the kabob guy into the base.  I jumped into one of our vans and raced to the gate.  We were running late.  I had expected everything to be set up and smokin’ by 1030.  I rolled up to the gate like the Po Po in Miami Vice and started my routine.  Talking loud.  Shaking hands and walking straight through to where Shoaib was being held up outside the main gate.  I stormed up to the ANA sentry and loudly proclaimed:  “Hey, these guys are with me!”  I pushed them all to the gate and started walking that way myself.

No problem.  It’s fairly easy to deal with the ANA if you are an American.

Finally, my man was on the scene and ready to start cooking.

Fortunately, the ANP are always late.  I don’t think I’ve ever seen them on time.  It’s that whole “insha’allah” mentality.  Things happen according to God’s will and timeline.  It’s just part of dealing with Muslims in general.

We got the kabob guy set up and cooking.  I had told Shoaib to have different types of meat.  I wanted an Afghan style party.  All we needed was for someone to get up in the middle and dance and we’d have been on it.

MG Ak and COL Zahir arrived with about 20 ANP Officers and the security detail at 1200 hours. We greeted them at the side of our class room building and brought them inside to start the party.

I got everyone seated and then stood in the middle to get everyone’s attention.  It was time to give out certificates to my guys ~ Milton, Wahid, Farhad and Shoaib.  I gave a short opening remark then brought my guys in along with MG AK and Al, our MPRI Team Leader, and we gave each of them a Certificate.  I also gave Milton an Afghan Flag on a marble mount with Herat, Afghanistan 2007 ~ 2010 inscribed on it.

I gave a little speech in effect saying that all of my success was due to these guys and that it was an awesome opportunity for me to have worked with them and the ANP as well as all of the MPRI team members.  Over all, Afghanistan has been an excellent experience for me.  I feel honored to have been able to take part in this grand adventure in some small capacity.

MG Ak stepped up next and presented me with another Cert and a beautiful carpet that I’ll probably have framed and hang at home.  It depicts the Minarets and the Ghowharashad Masjid.  It’s quite colorful as well.  I liked it.  He gave a little speech and saying that he’d enjoyed our time together and that I was a true member of the team and had become a part of the Afghan family.  So much so that they had given me the nickname “Dawood Khan.”  Everyone got a laugh out of that.  He presented Milton with a Cert as well and talked him up a bit.

Milton spoke a bit after that.  Thanking everyone for the successes out here and saying that the Herat Team was his favored place of the teams with which he had worked.  And this is true.  We’ve had our squabbles.  Some ongoing.  For the most part, though, we’ve got on like family.  To include the squabbles.  lol  Some of it reminds me of sibling rivalry.  Some of us just want to do the job.  We don’t care about recognition or awards.  Some want to be heroes and want to be recognized as such.  All part of the game.

We had a good group out here.  And it was a joy to work with these guys.

I gave a few last remarks and then said; “Alright, time to eat!”

Then I walked out and started pushing the guys to get the food in to our guests.

At some point, I sat down to eat with MG Ak.  We talked about my plans after Afghanistan.  He asked me if I’d be coming back at some point.  I told him that I didn’t plan to do so, but, that only God knows the future.  Of course, sometime during the conversation he told me to take care of my health because I’d gotten a bit heavy since I’d been here.  lol  I laughed and told him that Unny was making me join a gym in Bangkok.  He got a kick out of that.  As always, he asked after family.  Wanted to make sure that I was keeping in touch with Momma.  I told him that, of course, I was.

I have to say that Shoaib did a most excellent job with arranging everything.  The guy has been key to all my endeavors out here.  I’m lucky to have had such a great friend and co-worker.  Gods blessings.

Everyone ate.  We joked.  Laughed.  It was a good time.

I stood up to ask MG AK for a last picture together.  Called COL Zahir over for the pic.

As soon as MG AK stood, the whole of the ANP stood and started filing out.

We took pics with the General.  All of us together.  Before COL Zahir got away, I grabbed him for one last photo.  He started talking about Bangkok and told MG Ak that I was soon to be married.  lol  MG Ak asked me about Unny.  I showed him a picture of her.  He complimented her effusively saying how pretty she was and that I should take care of her.  Not let her get away.  Get married and have a family.  I told him that this was in my plans.

Then we said farewell for a final time.  MG AK wished me well in my future endeavors and told me to give greetings and his thanks to my Mother for sending him such a “fine young man” to mentor his Officers.  COL Zahir started joking on me and we exchanged a few last jibes.

Then it was over.  As sudden as it started.  In with a bang, out with a bang.

It was a great end to my time here in Herat.

That night and the next day, all of the MPRI guys kept stopping by to tell me that it was a great party and they had appreciated being a part of it.

They had to be a part of it, though.  They were part of my time here.  It’s only fitting that they be in on the end.

I’ve had a great time here in Herat.  It’s been a joy to work here with my American colleagues as well as the ANP and ABP.  They’ve been a great bunch and have helped to make this “tour of duty” extremely rewarding for me.

Below are photos of the event.  There are a bunch, though.  lol  Enjoy and Khoda hafiz.

Thanks for stopping by and feel free to leave a comment or two…

Walking around Camp Stone on a Friday morning

Art for Unny's Bangkok Cafe

I walked over the bazaar to say a final farewell to a friend.  Hossein sells bootleg DVDs at Coalition Camps all over Herat.  I’ve run into him all over the place.  Primarily at the RTC, Camp Stone and Camp Arena.  I’ve seen him tooling around downtown Herat once or twice as well.  We struck up a friendship of sorts over the past couple of years.  So I stopped by to say farewell.

While I was doing that, I ran into the Tea Pot.  Unny wants to have a small cafe in Bangkok.  So I figured it would make a nice piece to display at such a place.  I picked it up for her.  It’s inlaid with turquoise, lapis and some kind of red stone.  I like it.  It’s a nice little piece that I think she’ll like as well.  It’s decorated with figures from Hindu and Buddhist mythology which ties in nicely with Thailand.  Garuda is front and center in the picture.

The other pics are just random shots taken as I waswalking about the bazaar area and the camp.

Art for Unny’s Bangkok Cafe

Pictures from the Road ~ Gozarah District and the Farah-Herat Road

Enjoy!

Gifts from Amrikkiya

Since the Larry Vaught article a few people sent messages via email that they were sending gifts for my kids.  The first box arrived on Wednesday night.  I called and asked the military for a ride to the RHQ and took the gifts to Nahida, Jalil and Ali.  They were so excited to receive the toys and other items.  It was a cool day for all of us.

This particular box was from a friend from WildcatNation ~ PsychoCat.   Thanks to PsychoCat, I was finally able to give some real girly stuff to Nahida.  Like I said earlier, I’m clueless as to what a girl might want. Nahida loved the gifts and so did the boys. We played frisbee together for about a half hour and then I watched as the boys wrestled and tried to go all John Cena on me. lol Their words, not mine. I barely know who John Cena is…

I want to get these pics posted and I’m tired.  So since a picture speaks a thousand words…

Nahida is so much more vibrant in person than these pics portray.  She’s just super shy.  A lot of it is cultural.  I showed her a picture of my girlfriend Unny and told her that Unny said hello and that she (Nahida) was “such a pretty little gal.”  You should have seen her smile when I told her that.  So cute.  She seemed extremely reluctant to give it back to me.  So I gave it to her.  She kept looking at it.  Then she’d put it in her pocket and then take it out again for a peek.  She asked Shoaib to tell me that Unny was “besyar makbullah.”    I laughed and smiled and told her that I agreed.

The Media: How Do They Get It So Wrong? ALL THE TIME!

Camp Phoenix, on the outskirts of Kabul, is run by US forces, with some NATO member nations maintaining a presence there.

It is also a base for the Afghan army, which is being trained by international forces in the hope it can take over the responsibility for fighting the Taliban insurgency.

The camp occasionally comes under attack, mostly from rocket and mortar fire, though without casualties.

Camp Phoenix has never been mortared.  It’s never been rocketed.  Not while I was there.  Not while I was at Camp Eggers and not in the past 3 years.  I’d know.  I lived at Camp Phoenix for one year.  I lived on Camp Eggers for a year as well and visited Phoenix frequently.  I’ve been to Camp Phoenix several times over the past 3 years as well.  I have friends at Camp Phoenix right now.  One who has been there for 3 years.

Camp Phoenix has never been a training base for Afghans either.  Not the ANA or the ANP.  There are two Camps about ten miles down the road called Camp Blackhorse and the Kabul Military Training Complex (KMTC).  Afghans are trained there.  Afghans are trained at Darulaman and there are 2 or three ANP training bases within and around Kabul on which ANP are trained.

I see this happening all the time.  The Associated Press (AP) picks up a story written by some idiot who never leaves the safe confines of his hotel room or villa in Shahr-e Naw or Wazir Akhbar Khan.  These morons report as if they are on the scene.  They mix up place and location.  They hack together stories based on second hand information and pawn it off on the public as gospel truth.  The guy who wrote this story should be fired.  He printed a hand full of lies and sent it in as if he had actually visited the places about which he wrote.  A bunch of older hacks will probably award this poltroon a  Pulitzer and they’ll all sit around in a smoke filled chamber and congratulate each other on their bravery and literary brilliance.

I’ve seen this kind of irresponsible writing of lies and half truths all over the globe.  Korea when Kim Il Sung died.  When Qandahar was attacked.  In Kabul after various attacks.  In Herat after suicide bombings.  From whom do these morons obtain their “facts?”  Dr. Suess?  The Brothers Grimm?  Hanna- Barbera?  Does anyone back home in America fact check or edit their hotel room ramblings?

I read the newspaper and online journals and I often wonder if these folks are even in country.  What happened to reporting from the front?  These guys are reporting from the whorehouse or from the tea parlor.  They’re definitely NOT on the scene.  Not here in Afghanistan.  I can assure you of that.

Hanging out in Herat

These are my little bubbas.  I’ve visited them so often that they start yelling for me when they see me.   It’s cute.  I enjoy visiting with them.  It’s nice to be around kids.  A bit of innocence in this hard land and they’re nice little ones, too.

A day in Herat, Afghanistan

“Religion does not require women to veil their hands, feet and faces or enjoin any special type of veil. Tribal custom must not impose itself on the free will of the individual.”

Amanullah Khan
King of Afghanistan (1919-1929),
known as the “reform” king.

“We will not be a pawn in someone else’s game, we will always be Afghanistan!”

Ahmad Shah Masood
Prominent Afghan Commander,
fought against the Russians.

“Whatever countries I conquer in the world, I would never forget your beautiful gardens. When I remember the summits of your beautiful mountains, I forget the greatness of the Delhi throne.”

Ahmad Shah Durrani
Founder of the Afghan Empire, (1747-1773).
Many Afghan historians consider Ahmad Shah as the
true founder of modern Afghanistan.

“Once Europe existed in a Dark Age and Islam carried the torch of learning. Now we Muslims live in a Dark age.”

Mahmud Tarzi
Afghan Intellectual,
advisor to King Amanullah Khan
(1865-1933)

They made me invisible, shrouded and non-being
A shadow, no existence, made silent and unseeing
Denied of freedom, confined to my cage
Tell me how to handle my anger and my rage?
— Zieba Shorish-Shamley, from  “Look into my World”  published on the 50^th anniversary of the United Nations Universal Declaration of Human Rights

“When we are together, everyone here is talking about how the Taliban has destroyed our lives.  They won’t let us go to school because they want us to be illiterate like them.”
— Nasima, 35-year-old Kabul resident

If you are wounded and left alone
on Afganistan’s plains
and the women come out to cut up what remains
roll over on to your rifle
and blow out your brains
and go to your Gawd like a soldier
go to your Gawd, go to your Gawd….

Rudyard Kipling, “The Young British Soldier”.

Minaret of Jam

Minaret Jami

This is the Minaret of Jam. It’s about a 4 hour drive northeast of Herat on the road to Chist-e Sherif.  The tower has the Sura of Miriam inscribed on mud brick mosaic tiles on it’s outer surface.  The sura of Miriam is the story of the mother of Jesus as told in the Qur’an.  Very little is known for certain about the origins of the tower.  Only that it is an ancient relic dating to sometime around the Ghurid Dynasty of Afghanistan’s history.

he Minaret of Jam is a UNESCO World Heritage Site in western Afghanistan. It is located in the Shahrak District, Ghor Province, by the Hari River. The 65-metre highminaret, surrounded by mountains that reach up to 2400m, is built entirely of baked-bricks. It is famous for its intricate brick, stucco and glazed tile decoration, which consists of alternating bands of kufic and naskhi calligraphy, geometric patterns, and verses from the Qur’an (the surat Maryam, relating to Mary, the mother of Jesus). For centuries, the Minaret was forgotten by the outside world until rediscovered in 1886 by Sir Thomas Holdich, who was working for the Afghan Boundary Commission. It did not come to world attention, however, until 1957 through the work of the French archaeologists André Maricq and Wiet. Herberg conducted limited surveys around the site in the 1970s, before the Soviet invasion of 1979 once again cut off outside access. The archaeological site of Jam was successfully nominated as Afghanistan’s first World Heritage site in 2002. It was also inscribed in UNESCO’s list of World Heritage Sites in Danger, due to the precarious state of preservation of the minaret, and results of looting at the site.

The photos below were taken by an Afghan friend and colleague a few years ago.  He actually took them with a cell phone camera.  Great photos for a cell cam.  At the time, he was working with the Province Governor as a liaison for NGOs.  He and a few friends climbed in a 4WD and took the 8 hour trek over some nasty terrain to visit the Minaret.  They came south and west from the city of Chagcharan which is the capital district of Ghor Province.  Ghor Province is a part of Herat Region which is where I am working at the moment.

It would be amazing if I were able to visit the Minaret of Jam myself and get out to Chist-e Sherif which is a few hours drive from the area where the Minaret was built.  Alas, it is a treacherous drive and if the terrain doesn’t get you, the taleban or bandits might give it a go.  Perhaps, I will get my chance at some future time.  As for now, it is not to be…

Minaret Jami

I just returned from Ghor where I picked up this carpet depicting the Minaret. (21 October 2009)

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Herat City Map

This is an excellent map that gives incredible detail on western Afghanistan’s great Silk Road city.

The Mountains of Western Afghanistan

Minarets of Herat

The Minarets of Herat

I can’t get out to these parts of town.

So…I gave my camera to my boys Shoaib and Wahid.  They cruised down to the Minarets and took these photos for me and did a pretty good job of it.

Great photos.  I cropped and shaped some of them up a bit.  The photos give an excellent idea of the experience of visiting these ancient edifices. I would love to be able to get out there someday and see the Minarets myself.  Touch them.  Feel their spirit or their vibe so to speak.

Perhaps I’ll get the chance someday.

These links give a bit of background information about the Minarets.

Wikipedia

Times Online

Letters from Herat

Function of a Minaret

As well as providing a visual cue to a Muslim community, the call to prayer is traditionally given from the top of the minaret. In some of the oldest mosques, such as the Great Mosque of Damascus, minarets originally served as watchtowers illuminated by torches (hence the derivation of the word from the Arabic nur, meaning “light”). In more recent times, the main function of the minaret was to provide a vantage point from which the muezzin can call out the adhan, calling the faithful to prayer. In most modern Mosques, the adhan is called not in the minaret, but in the musallah, or prayer hall, via a microphone and speaker system.

In a practical sense, these are also used for natural air conditioning. As the sun heats the dome, air is drawn in through open windows and up and out of the shaft, thereby causing a natural ventilation.

Minarets have been described as the “gate from heaven and earth”, and as the Arabic language letter alif (which is a straight vertical line).

The world’s tallest minaret (at 210 meters) is located at the Hassan II Mosque in Casablanca, Morocco. The world’s tallest brick minaret is Qutub Minar located in Delhi, India. There are two 230 meter tall minarets under construction in Tehran, Iran.